On The Road Again!!!

On The Road Again!!

Saturday Morning we decided that we needed to take some time out and rediscover Aswan seeming that the last time I visited was 12 years ago I had a feeling things may have changed slightly! Plus when people want your advice and suggestions on the best places to visit, it only seems right to go and experience it for myself!

I know you’re thinking ‘yeah right of course that’s the only reason’!!

We took off at a very reasonable 7am and headed out on the West Bank road from Luxor to Aswan.

View From Our Car!

I love the early mornings in Egypt as there is so much to see with people going about their daily life’s; children going off to school and farmers in their field with their donkeys standing by the side of the fields eating their Alfalfa!

By 10:30am we decided to take a slight detour to see Gebel el-Silsila. I had never been there before but had heard loads about the place; usually you only get to go there if you are taking a dahabyia (sailing boat) down the Nile to Aswan as they are the only boats small enough to dock in the shallow water.

I was not disappointed; if anything the place is never given justice!

 

View From The Banks Of Gebel el-Silsila

The first thing that strikes you is how quite it is there; getting out of our car all you can see are the Mountains of the East bank and the Nile.

Purchasing out tickets at the little ticket office a local guardian took us along the path running adjacent to the Nile to see the wonders that awaited.

 

Path To The Sites

Gebel el-Silsila is an ancient quarry where you can see how they cut the stone blocks for some of the amazing temples we can still see today.

There is a unique rock carved temple made for the 18^th dynasty king Horemheb; it was very different compared to all the other temples I have been in this seemed to have a bit of everything in it! Including wall art depicting dancing scenes. The niches where amazing with the carvings of the gods unfortunately they are not in good condition but still is was so different to anything we have in Luxor.

Horemheb Temple

Inside The Temple

Some of the wall art inside the temple

Walking further down the path we came to the quarry where the blocks where cut; I loved it there for you could see the insignas of the past work gangs up in the rock face.

As you go deeper in to the quarry you have to put your rock climbing skills to use as you make your way along; which if you have ever seen me is no mean feat!!! Hot and sweaty yes I was but it was more than worth the effort!

Looking A Bit Sweaty Next To Mr Cool!!

Some More Of The Rock Tombs

The quarry along with its cave tombs go on for a mile or so and as we only thought it would be a short stop on our journey to Aswan decided to go back towards the car so we could continue our journey.

But not before I took a few more Pictures!

Inside One Of The Rock Tombs

Vivid Colours From Inside One Of The Rock Tombs

On the road again we made our way down to Aswan but before we got there we made a coffee stop!

I had to take a picture of this temple building is still in full swing if this transport is anything to go by!!

 

Arriving in Aswan I was amazed at how little it had changed! The streets where a little busier than I remember but then it was still an Egyptian holiday so there would be more people than normal but the difference between Aswan and Luxor still amazes me.

We decied you go over to Elephantine Island which is set in the centre of the Nile in Aswan. I was quite exctied about this as it would be a first for me I have always managed to sail round it but never set foot on it!

The people there where really nice and we walked through the streets unhassled by any one, we headed out towards the Nubian house Ibiza for a nice cool drink and a prime seat looking out over the Nile; the veiw was stunning.

 

The View From The Coffee Shop

Once we cooled down we took a walk across the island to the Aswan museum where they were excavating the Abu Ruins I was shocked to see there where ancient statues still buried in the earth! Were they real I would think so; but here’s a picture so you can decide!

 

Once we had finished taking a look around Elephantine we decided to take a motor boat ride to the Nubian village we had heard so much about through Lonely Planet but to get there we need to take a motor boat up through the first cataract.

Waiting For Our Motor Boat

Are You sure There Are No Crocodiles??

The beauty of the Nile is startling as you make your way via boat to the first cataract with plenty to keep bird watchers amused.

As you draw closer to the cataract the water gets stronger making it impossible for anything but a motor boat to pass through; over on the West Bank we could see camels lazing around waiting for customers to come for a ride!

Here is also the only place on the Nile I would take a dip the water is so clear with no pollution from all the cruise boats.

Can You Spot The Birdy?

Camels Are Waiting For You!

Looking A Bit Less Sweaty! With The Aga Khan In The Background

We arrived at the Nubian village with its house of Kush; I have to say I want impressed! It is clearly all staged and full of hassle with the usual ‘come and look no charge’! I made it a full 5 minutes before leaving! This wasn’t the Nubian experience I was looking for; my advice is if you want a really Nubian Experience go to Elephantine Island as you will get what you want without the hassle!

The Nubian Village! With its House Of Kush!

Taking our leave we sailed back down the cataract to an island over looked by the famous Old Cataract Hotel where Agatha Christie wrote her famous stories like Death On The Nile

Old Cataract Hotel

The Island houses a restaurant called Dooka here you can not only get great Nubian Food but you have a fantastic View of Elephantine Island and the west Bank desert

The View From The Dooka Restaurant

We ate a fantastic feast of chicken and fish tagine with Egyptian rice and salad. You can’t get alcohol there but with food as good as they serve who needs it!

The bread they serve is all freshly baked that day and the fish caught that morning you really can’t get any better.  With me being such a food lover I was well in my element there and ate until I was fit to burst!!

Our Salads

We took the public ferry back from the island to Aswan’s East Bank and decided to take a shopping trip to the old Aswan Souk. Not much had changed at all since my last trip there with the same wares as you can find in most souks up and down Egypt.

At first the hassle was at a minimum but as you followed the souk up towards the train station it got worse and I found my husband no longer wanted to walk with me as my mood went from pleasant to decidedly unpleasant!! You know I wouldn’t mind so much if they didn’t stand directly in front of me making it impossible to get round them only for them to say something like ‘no hassle here’!! urmmm!!!

After running the gauntlet we made our way back to our car with our trophy Mandarins!! I really had forgotten how wonderful this city really is and I can say I will not be leaving it 12 yrs before I revisit it.

I think from now on all our customers who want to go will have me tagging along purely for work reasons of course!!!

Aswan’s New Bridge

 

As we took our leave and made our way back over the new bridge out of the city the sun had started to set and all the walking had started to take its toll, as I sat there seizing up but content I reflected on my day I realized how much more to Aswan there actually was than just its ancient history. The one thing that without a doubt stood out above the rest was its stark natural beauty, which alone is worth seeing.

 

The Sun Setting Over The Desert

Where will our adventures take us next? who knows! All I do know is there is so much more to the lands of Egypt than its history although that in it’s self is worth coming for!

But as they say tomorrow is another day!

 

Encounters Of The Red Sea Kind!!!

Having spent the last 2 years working with no break we decided it was high time for a bit of R'n'R! So we packed up a suit case and headed for Hurghada a lovely town situated on the Red Sea 4 hours drive from Luxor.
You can fly there but I find it more fun to take a car as the roads along the way are something special :)

We left Luxor at sun rise bleary eyed with two very excited children in tow! as we made our way out of Luxor we saw the hot air balloons taking off from their launch site on the West Bank it is amazing how many balloons their are now I remember the days when we only had one or two!

As we headed down towards Qena it amazed me how much the landscape changed from the stretches of Lush green running along the River Nile to the desert wastelands that we found ourselves heading towards.

Mountains 10 miles outside Luxor

We passed through the city of Qena, home to Dendara Temple and was stunded at the difference between Luxor and Qena.
Here the street seemed cleaner with roads just for the public cars. Once outside Qena we continued are journey on towards Hurghada.

Half way through our journey the landscape changed again with the mountains closing in around us the rock faces all jaggered with an almost menacing look about them it was like being in a different world completely with what I can only describe as desolate beauty.

The feeling as you travel through here is the sense that there is still so much to be discovered hidden in the mountainous rock that surrounds you as you drive through.

It amazed me to see the Bedouin people still living within these mountains people walking along the roads seemingly on the road to no ware! We passed a Bedouin woman carrying water on her head while leading her donkey, with her thick black clothing and a long head scarf made of the same material. I couldn't understand it as there I was sweating in a light cotton shirt and trousers in an air conditioned car, while outside it must have been 42c and she was dressed like it was winter!! I guess there is method in this madness.
What was just as amazing about her was when the wind got up you could make out the amazing colours of another dress beneath the black very different in deed from the woman of Luxor.

As we came out of the desert we sighted our first glims of the beautiful Red Sea in Safaga we knew then we only had 45 minutes before we reached our destination!

As we entered in to Hurghada you can see all round the amazing hotel complexes lining the beaches, it was only then we realized we had no idea where are hotel was or how to get there!!
After asking 6 taxi drivers and made 20 wrong turns the pyramid entrance of our hotel came in to view and at last our holiday (even if only for 4 days!) could begin.

Are hotel was the Sonesta Pharaohs Hotel 5* All Inclusive and from the onset it looking impressive.

The Reception Area Of Our Hotel

Once we checked in we made our way to our chalet and as we walked wondered why they had golf carts taking people around it was only once we found are chalet that we realised why!

Ok I'm Lost!!

When we booked the hotel they describe them selves has having everything within walking distance which is true to a point. You have to not mind a 10 minute walk from the main building to your room bearing in mind that the main building houses all the restaurants and entertainment! The beach was another 5 minute walk from our room but if you where staying in the main building you would defiantly need the golf cart!

The pool Area

Not to be deflated as lets face it we are still on holiday we quickly changed and headed to the beach.

One of the many things I love about Egypt is the Red Sea it is stunning and you don't have to go on the trips to see the wild life, all you need is a good pair of goggles!

Unfortunately to get in the Sea you needed to walk down a pier so the children couldn't go in the water by themselves, but we didn't mind as the sea was amazing with roped off coral areas that if you had your google you could see the amazing aquatic life swimming about.

In all the years I have lived in Egypt I have never caught the sun so decided on a low factor as didn't see the point in anything higher!
Never ever EVER underestimate the power of the Egyptian sun yes you have guessed it I was just a little sun burnt after only 2 hours in the sun!! Be warned all you sun worshipers out there if you are intending to come and stay on the Red Sea make sure you pack you factor 50!!!

Remebr the factor 50 or you may look like this!!!!

Yes that is lotion to stop the burning!!

In the evening time we saw to my injuries!! and headed up to dinner. This was lovely plenty of choice for all. The house wine is not bad either and it is great that the children can go and help themselves. We didn't get to watch the show that night as after the travelling we decided on bed.

The next day we stayed half the day by the pool and the rest down on the beach. Now for an all inclusive hotel they sure do like to try and sell you something which started to get on my nerves.
There was no fresh juice unless you paid for it and in the afternoon went around with trays of ice cream for the children which when we said oh yes please ended up saying no thank you as it wasn't for free!

The cleaning staff did an amazing job and left this on our bed which of course Saffy found wonderful! ;)

The worst came that night, it was advertised Mexcian night and the cocktail of the evening was mohito I love them so thought we would have one after dinner. The barman told me to sit down and he would bring the drinks over, on their arrival the drinks looked nothing like what I ordered plus he put down the bill!!! it was at this point i spat the dummy! and called for the manager.

Please if any hotel owners are reading this remember if you are going to advertise all inclusive make sure your hotel is all inclusive as for the rest of our stay I was so stressed out I didn't know what to ask for and what not to just in case in cost something!!

The animation team worked very hard and my two loved the Micheal Jackson night they put on I can't remember to much as was taking red wine for medicinal purposes !

My two Before the show!

On the last day we spent it by the sea me covered from head to toe to keep the sun off! with camera at the ready below are just some of the amazing bits of wild life that we found on our trip.

Butterfly Fish

 This guy followed us around for the whole holiday!

 Until I went to Hurghada I never really appreciated the phrase swimming with the jellies! but these guys are every where it is a little disturbing at first as being taught from a young age that jelly fish sting I was amazed that these didn't I am sure they do have a sting but was touched by loads of them and came out fine!

The fish amazed me he/she was swimming close to surface of the water making it a great picture moment ! I have no idea what it is but it is beautiful.

We found lots of star fish to under the pier.

On our way home we came across a shopping mall with a proper supermarket!! I know amazing !! you have to live in Luxor to understand the importance of a real super market! lol
We stocked up on provisions and made our way home.

Even though our hotel choice was all wrong and they need to take it from a 5* to (at the most 4*) we had an amazing time in Hurghada and will be back again next time I going to go swimming with the dolphins!

It is so totally different from the hustle and bustle of Luxor all you have is the sea and sun you can go out if you wish or stay in your resort the choice is yours.

On our return journey home we watched the sun go down over the Theban Mountains making me appreciate how wonderful my home really is.

What To Do On A Hot Day!

Well you would think after my last adventure I would be a bit more sensible on my next outing! But seeming sense has never been my strong point I decided to take a trip to the lovely Temple of Tod in the middle of the afternoon with the family!!

So off we went this time driving to Tod as the temple is about 10 miles out side Luxor on the road to Aswan, first of all we stopped off in Luxor to pick up the tickets from Luxor Temple then off we went to Tod.

When we crossed over in to Tod we all realized no one knew how to find the temple only that it was in Tod some where!! So we asked one of the police men at the check point who was unusually helpful and pointed us in the right direction.
As we entered in to the village it was like entering another world entirely even for me who lives in a remote village on the West Bank of Luxor. The people seemed untouched by tourism there was no hassle as the car drove past just mild looks of interest.

One of the Side Streets In Tod

As you drive around you are surrounded by mounds of sand and rock with the houses sourounding them you would think they would dig in to the mounds but they haven't really botthered!

After about 6 wrong turns and asking loads of people directions! (Question why is it when you ask an Egyptian directions even when it is quite clear they have no idea they still give you them even though they are totally wrong!!!)

Any way!

We find the Temple, from the out side there doesn't seem to be much its when you enter you see the temple for its utter charm.

The Entrance To The Temple

We were amazed by the row upon row of stone all with a hieroglyphic here and a picture there all unique. The problem with wanting to see everything is I tend to take my time looking at each individual stone to which Saffy asked if we were ever going to look at the temple itself!!

The Temple although small is just wonderful with only a small section still standing the depictions on the walls and hieroglyphics are beautiful. You can see the different periods in history and it is so very quiet that with a little imagination you can imagine what it was like all thoughts years ago.

It felt like the Temple had been opened especially for  us there was no one else there but us even the Temple guardians kept their distance with no hassle at all!



Our First Look At The Temple

By now it was 12pm and the heat was starting to come in to the afternoon but that was not going to deter me from investigating further!

The Temple is dedicated to the God Montu and sits directly opposite Armont Temple on the West Bank and there really is a simlar feel to the two Temples. Like so many other Temples the village is built around it which makes you wonder exactly how much is still left to discover?


My two trouble makers loved the Temple and go looking round at the pictures on the walls my son thinks he is the king of the castle!!

King Of The Castle!

She Thinks Without Help It May Fall Down!

As we make our way to the rear of the main Temple Structure over on the left you can find the crypt which looks out of place as it is raised higher than the main building.

Everywhere within the Temple complex you can see date trees but the largest of these sits in the centre just behind the main hall. It is a wonderful place to sit in the shade out of the mid-day sun which was now makings it's way in to the 40's!!!

The children and I left everyone else (light weights!!) under the tree while we made our way to the back of the Temple we were rewarded for our efforts by the fantastic hieroglyphics on the left over walls.

Hieroglyphics On The Back Wall 

The Wonderful Tree At The Back Of The Temple

View From The Back Of The Temple

As you can see from the above picture the Temple guardian always kept a respectful distance away and never tried to sell us anything!!

On our way back we walked around the far side of the Main Hall and saw two what look like the start of underground passage ways which are now mostly filled in when we asked about them we were told that they had been investigated by the archaeologists and they found the tunnels went on so far underground that it was unsafe to go further so gave up! Nothing makes me feel more like getting my shovel out than a story like that!! Have no idea if it is true but nice to imagine of course the children thought it was a great story and spent a lot of time looking at them in more detail.

The Mistry Tunnel!

Walking Back round to the main entrance we come across the real guardians of the Temple take a break from the heat of the day ready for their night shift!!

The Real Guardians!!

You know the time has come to go when you are producing enough sweat to power the Nile! And your hair that way sitting nicely earlier that day is now looking puffy and strange!

Hot Sweaty But Happy!!

The Temple of Tod was a wonderful place so if you have a chance go an visit it I would however recommend going early in the morning as even 5ltr of water can't keep you cool and that was drunk just by me!!

;)